Canine Corner - Dog Blog

Today we would like to discuss you teaching your dog to make eye contact.  Making eye contact with your dog and getting them to make eye contact with you is one on the basics that you need to master.  We're sure you've been there as we have when you use your dog's name at the wrong time.  Perhaps you're angry because they've just chewed up your shoe or even your coffee table. You yell their name and expect them to come to you or to stop doing something but then they hear the tone of your voice and know that coming to you now just means punishment.

Instead, what we would challenge you to do is to change the way your dog associates their name. When they hear their name it should mean make eye contact and this is going to be a good thing for them, not bad.  Never use your dog's name in association with punishment or take them away from what they perceive to be fun.  If you have done this for a long period of time, you may even have to change your dog's name to get them to respond in a positive manner. Your goal is to make your dog, love its' name.

You should start by using their favorite toy as a lure.  Get your dog to make eye contact by slowly moving the toy in front of your face in slow up and down and side to side motions. Essentially, you are teaching your dog to look at you and be excited about it.  Once you can get your dog's attention (even if for a few seconds) reward them by using their name and lots of praise followed by games with the toy.  Our recommendation for this exercise is 3 to 5 times a day until your dog willingly looks at you and holds the eye contact.  What this means to your dog is, when I hear my name, good things happen.  Once your dog has success in 5 out of 5 times, you can try the next phase.

Now, try this same thing with your hands and the toy hidden.  Say your dog's name.  If they make eye contact, they get the praise and the toy.  Again, work on this until they succeed 5 out of 5 times.  

The next thing you will want to do is to introduce distractions.  Obviously, you want to keep this in a controlled environment in the beginning so you can ask a friend to help you out.  

Start by having your helper walk by with food a few inches from your dog's nose and then put it away.  Call their name and when they make eye contact, pull their favorite treat out of your pocket or even their food bowl with food from a shelf or counter near you.  Give them praise and your dog thinks, "Wow!" "My owner just gave me exactly what I want, just by looking at him."  

  

Now, have your helper bounce a ball and then put it back in their pocket.  Again, you want a ball or your dog's favorite toy in your pocket to pull out after you have called their name and they look at you.  Again, give them lots of praise and your dog thinks, "Awesome!"  "My favorite toy, just for looking at my owner!"

Now you can move them to other places where there might be natural distractions and practice the exercise again with a reward and praise until your dog looks at you each and every time. When your dog is successful at this, you can vary the reward so sometimes they have to make eye contact multiple times before getting the reward.  You can also change the type of reward. Perhaps the next time they get to play tug of war, ball, or even receive their dinner.  

The final step to try is to hide your rewards in advance.  Maybe you go out on a walk and call your dog's name and pull his favorite toy out of the bushes.  Your dog thinks you can work miracles and will willingly pay attention to their name no matter the circumstances.  The idea here is to always make sure the reward, whatever it is, is positive so that they associate their name with good.  

This concludes today's session.  Thank you so much for your time and attention.  Now go out, work and play with your dog, and make it a great day!  :o)

Canine Corner - Dog Blog

Today we'd like to address choosing your training rewards and.  This will help you teach your dog to take food from your hands in a gentle way and give up toys without the old "tug-of-war" match when play time is over.

First experiment a little and find out what your dog likes best.  Our boys like "No Grainers" which are obviously, grain free and contain no artificial additives.  They are all natural and semi soft.  We chose the chicken variety the first time and ended up coming back to it after trying the fish flavor. Let's just say, one of us has a bad gag reflex and there is just something about giving your dog something that smells like dead fish and makes your hands smell that way too that changes your treat choice pretty quickly.  We came back to the chicken variety and haven't strayed from it since.  We found ours at www.Amazon.com and if you're interested, you can too.

Some dogs like squeaky toys and others love a tennis ball.  Ours love any toy but lose interest in them much more quickly than food.  With regard to food and toys you can try any or all of the following alternatives:

• Low fat cheese (1/4" cubes or less) - mozzarella and string cheese are great choices
• Squeeze Cheese - works great and once your dog learns to take it from the nozzle - no mess for you either
• Boiled Chicken Breast Pieces
• Turkey Frank "Hot Dog" Slices - precut or break them off in your hand as you go
• Homemade Dog Goodies
• and Even Their Regular Dog Food 
• Food Stuffed Toys (like "Kong") are great ways to get and hold your dog's interest.  Our boys are chewers and "Kong" is virtually indestructible.  You can find this at Mutt Mart by clicking this link.
• Fleece Toys, Nylon Bones, etc.

We have found that our dogs prefer food to toys.  However if your dog is an exception, just roll with it.  :o)

Since dogs have evolved from hunters to pets, they don't have to worry about where their next meal is going to come from.  However, dogs are always on high alert; always be looking for and receptive to times when "extra" food is available.  Just think about the last time you accidentally dropped something on the floor and how quickly they will scoop it up.  The point is not that the food is special, but that your dog responds to it.  

One note of caution...if you use food for a reward, please be sure to compensate at mealtime; meaning cut back by the amount you used as training rewards from their meal.  Another way around this is to schedule their training session around their mealtime.  This takes all of the guesswork out of it and keeps your training time fun!

Most dogs that are "grabby" or "nippy" are the result of a less than confident owner pulling their hand back thinking that they may be bit.  The truth is you can teach your dog to take food gently from your fingers by making sure they have contact with your fingers.  If they are too aggressive and involve their teeth in this process, then hang onto the food tighter until they realize they need to be gentle and then you will release the food.  

If you find that they are still too rough or you have too sensitive fingers, put the food on a spoon and put your thumb over the piece of food.  The only thing in your hand should be the "bowl" of the spoon and your thumb.  If your dog tries to take the food to roughly (biting down) they will bite down on the spoon.  Just trust us when we tell you, they don't like this.  Remove your thumb only when they become gentle.  You really won't have to say anything in the form of reinforcement (although a "Good Dog" would certainly be appropriate), your dog will quickly figure out what is the right amount of pressure and will learn to take the food from you in a gentle way.  

Now let's start with the basic "Give the Toy Back"  or the beginning basic breakdown of retriever training.  Keep in mind this is as important for them to learn as it is for you to teach them.  You never know when a dog is going to pick something up that is undesirable (dead animals and remote controls come to mind) and you want them to learn to release it without a tug of war or catch-me-if-you-can game.

As I mentioned, our dogs love almost all of their toys and are more interested in pleasing us than which toy they happen to have.  Obviously you want to practice this exercise when your dog is in a calm state and not on a full-out rip!  Start with a toy and a handful of treats.

Your dog should be on a leash for this exercise.  This way, there is no opportunity for them to run off with the thing that you want them to release.  Begin by giving them the toy and say "Take" until they get a good grip.  Then show them a treat.  When they take the treat and begin to release the toy say "Release" or "Let Go" or "Drop It".  You choose the words but be consistent. As soon as they release the toy say "Yes" or "Good Dog" making sure they get the praise that all dogs love.  

Next try the same thing with another toy and another until your dog loses interest (you will know when to say when).  Practice this exercise 3-5 times a day.  If your dog ever bites down on any part of you rather than letting go, stop the training immediately.  Applying a bit of bitter apple to your hands is a very good way to make sure your dog won't repeat the action. When your dog can consistently release 9 out of 10 times, you have succeeded and can take the food reward away or put it on a random basis so your dog never knows when the next treat is coming.  

This concludes the basic "Give The Toy Back" training.  If you have questions or run into problems, drop us an email and we'll be happy to try and help you out.  

 

Canine Corner - Dog Blog

Welcome to the Dog Blog! 

 

Today we’re going to briefly touch on solving the overnight in the crate and no water problem as well as a fantastic cleaner and deodorizer for cleaning up messes. 

 

If you're worried about your puppy or dog not having water in the evening, put an ice cube or two in their bowl with no water.  This will melt slowly and will in most cases save you from having to get up in the middle of the night with a whining dog that needs to go to the bathroom.   This also could save you having to get up to let them out or yet another trip to the floor with paper towels and deodorizer.

 

On that subject (deodorizer), do not, we repeat, DO NOT use a mop and bucket or a rag to clean up an accident.  This only spreads the smell around on your floors around and makes your mop and rags smell pretty bad to boot.  ;o)

 

From a single drop of urine, the sniffing dog learns the marking animal's sex, diet, health, emotional state, and even whether it's dominant or submissive, friend or foe.  So what does this mean to you?  If there is a scent left, they will find it.

 

We have however found and recommend a product called "Nature's Miracle".  We found it at the amazon.com.  If you're interested in getting it for yourself, just follow the link below. 

It is available in an orange scent (our favorite) and according to the bottle it "Instantly activates to permanently remove the toughest stains and odors including pet urine and more!"  

 

This stuff really seems to do the trick.  We tried it with our dogs and ended up sticking with it permanently.  We also have tried it on carpets that were stained by past accidents and it also worked miracles.  

 

Trust us when we say this, products like Windex just don't do the job and the odds are that your puppy or dog will re-use the same spot in the future.  Buy a good, instant, and permanent remover and stick with it.  The results far outweigh the price and frustration of an inferior product.     

 

That's it for Potty Training 101.  As always, please email us if you have any questions or need further information.  Remember consistency is the key, sometimes doggie land mines are impossible to avoid, and go out there and make it a great day!  :o)

 

Canine Corner - Dog Blog

Welcome to the Dog Blog!  Today we’re going to talk about food as it relates to potty training.

 

Potty training also applies to feeding times.  Puppies generally have pretty quick digestive systems.  So if you feed them, there is only a 5-15 minute window of opportunity to get them out before they will leave you a "present".

 

Another part of being a pack leader is directly related to feeding times and time allowed to feed. Puppies should be fed 3 times a day according to the label on their dog food.  Amount should be based on their body weight and most pet food companies are very good about putting this on the label.

 

We feed in the morning, during lunch hour, and in the evening before we eat.  With puppies we allow about a 20 minute window to eat because everything in their world is new to them and they are easily distracted.  Then we take the food and water away.  Being a pack leader you are already teaching them that they will be fed when you say they will be fed.  

 

Don't worry, they won't starve.  But we can guarantee you if they do go hungry a few times, they will be ready, willing, and eager to eat right away the next time.  ;o)

 

If your puppy or dog jumps up before you get the food bowl down (or even if they don't), make sure they are in a calm state before you put the bowl down.  This can save you a lot of frustration in spilled food and water in the future.  With our boys, we make them sit first; the analogy being, you can't jump when you are sitting.

 

Remember, if you play hard with them, take them for a walk, or anything that requires more water, let them drink it but then remember to take them out again immediately after and before putting them in their crate for the night.  

 

That’s all for today!  Join us tomorrow for another Dog Blog with a hot tip!

 

Canine Corner - Dog Blog

Welcome to the Dog Blog!

 

Puppies like adult dogs will almost always give you visual clues that they need to go outside such as whining, excessive jumping, sniffing, spinning, etc.  We have a friend whose dog leans against the door and that is the only clue.  You will learn your dogs "warning sign or signs" as you get acquainted with each other.  

 

One thing we've learned is that most puppies are somewhat like cows.  Get them up and moving and they will "go".  

 

So the first thing to do when you feed them, get them up from a nap or wake up in the morning is to show them to the door and then to the area that you want them to relieve themselves in.  Use a verbal command such as "Outside" to move them to the door.  It is important to note that when teaching commands, use one or two word commands and don't say anything else or it can cause confusion.  

 

Once outside in their designated area use a command such as "Go" each and every time.  This helps your puppy to know what they are supposed to do and prevents the sniffing and roaming ritual frustrations so many dog owners experience.  Once they are done, praise them like crazy and if you want to, let them play.  But only do this after they "Go".

 

One tip on the taking them to the area you want them to relieve themselves in... (and yes, we know it's a pain) but just do it until they learn where you want them to go.  Otherwise they will think the world is their poop deck and you will have more than one encounter with their special brand of "chocolates".  :o)  

 

Also, if you have two puppies (and yes, we should have our heads examined), take them each out individually.  We tried letting them out together but then they just played off from each other's energy and forgot all about what they were out there for.

 

With regard to all punishment and including “accidents”, always remember that you need to catch them in the act.  If it happens (and it will), Scold them with a loud NO!  In the case of accidents, take them to the pre-designated area to relieve themselves in.  

 

If you are using outdoors or a litter box for training, always follow up with lots of praise or in our case, we have always used healthy treats.  Our dogs come back to the door immediately after relieving themselves because they know that if they do, they will usually get a treat.  Down the road, you can play it like the lottery; sometimes your dog gets a treat and sometimes they don’t. 

 

With other bad behaviors always follow up with the proper correction (a loud “NO” will usually suffice) and follow it with the positive action you want them to do instead (instead of jumping, you make them sit).  You will win the battle of wills much faster if you are always consistent!  

 

We hope you’ve enjoyed today’s Dog Blog.  Now go out there and make it a great day!  :o)

 

Canine Corner - Dog Blog

Welcome to the Dog Blog!

 

Looking at our two boys, (Carny and Buddy) and watching them at play, we're struck by how many other canine/dog owners out there may have experienced the same frustrations we have encountered (or have yet to encounter).  So that is what this Dog Blog will cover.

 

Our biggest and admittedly first frustration was potty training also known as housebreaking your new puppy.  It is always seemingly difficult in the beginning but with two puppies at the same time it felt like we would never get there.  But get there we did!  Over the next several dog blogs, I will cover several things which you should find invaluable if you’ve never been down the path of potty training your puppy or dog (or even if you have).

 

The primary key to housebreaking is consistency.  And in our case, with two at once, it all began with crate training.  

 

The crate training method is perfect for any situation because let's face it...you are not going to be able to watch your new puppy 100% of the time.  Crates are not cruelty.  Crates are your puppy’s new home and that is just exactly how they will see it too.  

 

Your puppy and then dog will come to look at their crate as their own personal space.  In fact, we occasionally catch one of our two sleeping in the crate with the door open.  

 

In most cases, your puppy will not go where they sleep.  So it is good peace of mind for you that once they have done their "business", if you need to do something else and cannot supervise them, crate them.  

 

If you do get a puppy from a pet store (which I do not recommend), you will have to watch them in the crate too.  Puppies and dogs can be reformed from going where they sleep and although it can be difficult, it can be done.  The best thing is to start them out right with proper crate training.   

 

Once they are outside of the crate, the first thing to remember is to set boundaries.  This is also part of being a pack leader.  In the wild, pack leaders will snap, growl, nip or even bite other dogs in the pack if they are out of line.

 

In our case we have a large kitchen with vinyl floors and what I laughing call four "escape hatches" also known in this case as doorways.  Every possible outlet into the rest of your house should be blocked at all times so that they are allowed to roam outside of a considerably smaller area.  This can be achieved by child gates, boards, and in our case; even the crates themselves!

 

Blocking the “escape hatches”  is very important in order to establish the area they are allowed to be in.  Limit it to just that area and only with supervision.  

 

It helps to think of your puppy like a small child.  If you are not supervising them, we can guarantee that their "land mines and ponds" are not fun to step in.  Also, if you have any other dangers in the room such as cords plugged into electrical outlets, they will find those too so be aware and take care or you could end up with an accident requiring a trip to the emergency animal hospital or even death!  So, it’s best to “puppy proof” your training area from the get go.  Just do it!

 

That’s all for today’s dog blog!  Check back often and we’ll talk more about the potty training process.  Have a terrific day!  :o)